ANNIE HAMILTON TALKS ANNIE HAMILTON CLOTHING

Interviewed by Culture Coast Talks editor Daniel John. Interview transcripts might have been edited for length and clarity.

I am interested in Australia fashion sense. In Sweden, fashion is practical and purposeful. While we like to look good, we also don't like to stand out in a crowd, at least not too much. How would you describe your approach to style?

Australia has a pretty small market compared to Sweden, or anywhere in Europe! But I do think we have our own distinctive style and we do have a thriving scene of emerging indigenous Australian designers, I would really recommend following the AusIndigenousFashion-account on Instagram to check some of them out. I think my own approach to style is reflective of my life experience as a city-dwelling musician working in creative industries, it's laid back, lots of black, functional, interesting textures and fabrics and also a bit androgynous, it all definitely influences my vision for my label, I basically just design the clothes I'd like to wear. I have always focused on timeless shapes in beautiful fabric, aiming to design pieces that are trans-seasonal, designed to be worn over and over again, and that looks a bit different.

So many designers seem afraid of colours?

I guess colourful designs could be a little riskier to design, as they are potentially harder to sell. I know that personally, most of the clothing I buy is black or neutral, as I feel like it'll be easier to pair with other clothing, it goes with everything and I'll get a lot of wear out of it. In saying that though, I think it is so important to create a memorable colour palette in a collection. Even though most of the clothes I buy are black, I really love finding or designing a print piece with the perfect combination of colours.

Did you always know you wanted to design fashion?

Definitely not! I had dreamt about it as a teenager, and I always used to make my own clothes, but I never thought I would make a career out of it. I didn't study fashion or have work experience in fashion, I literally started this label on a whim when I had some spare time and wanted to make some clothes for myself and ended up getting a bit carried away. I have always loved fashion as an outlet for creative expression and for individuality. And I really love seeing people wearing my designs, it's very rewarding.

How much attention do you pay the rest of the industry?

Not much, I like to see what other designers are doing. But I do not pay any attention to the conventional fashion timeline or the "seasons", and I do not make any attempt to follow the latest trends. I just make collections that work for my own timelines even if it's much slower or out-of-sync with the rest of the fashion industry it doesn't bother me. I like to keep an eye on what the current trends are, but I do not design according to them. I find it way more important to develop my own style and stick with that, and let it progress naturally rather than trying to keep up with what everyone else is doing. It takes me several months to get a new design into production, so if I tried to keep up with the trend cycles, I would always end up lagging behind.

What designers does catch your eye?

There are a few brands I really love for their ethos, their imagery, and their overall sense of style. Off the top of my head, Lonely Lingerie for their distinctive style, Jesse Kamm for her functionality, Paloma Wool for her sense of play, and Rodarte for their amazing use of decoration and adornment.

We have become more aware of who makes our clothes and the impact on our lives, with a growing desire to consume more sustainably. Where do you stand on creating greater longevity, for the clothes, people and for the planet?

I think this is more important now than ever. Just as consumers have a right to know who is making their clothes, the people who are making the clothes have a right to safe and fair working conditions and a living wage. The fashion industry has for far too long hidden the manufacturing process from consumers, but I believe that without transparency there can be no accountability. When I started the label I decided that I would not do it at all if I could not do it properly, so my whole collection is printed and made locally in Sydney. I have a great relationship with my makers and I visit them regularly during production, so I can be sure that they're working in excellent conditions. I use hundred percent natural or deadstock fabrics with a focus on sustainable fibres such as linen, hemp and organic cotton. I also digitally print my fabrics instead of dyeing as this process uses far less water and creates less wastage.

Change starts with each of us, but we still have many companies that don’t seem to care enough yet. What still needs to change for fashion to become truly sustainable?

I think at the end of the day, it costs more money to produce things ethically and sustainably so it can seem like a bad business decision for the already established brands to change their manufacturing processes. However, the more the movement grows, the more consumers are demanding accountability from brands and boycotting brands with a bad track record, so I actually think that even though it may cost brands more money to invest in ethical and sustainable production, in the end they will benefit from keeping their employees happy and healthy and proving to their customers that they uphold the moral stance that is expected of them. I also think that more brands should help to educate their customers, about what they are doing. For example explaining why certain fibres or processes are more sustainable than others so the consumer can make a more educated decision regarding as to where they want to spend their money.

In addition to your clothing brand, you also create music. Everyone is aware of how artists have struggled during the pandemic, but how has the fashion world been affected?

I can't speak for other designers or brands, but the pandemic has hugely impacted my fashion label, all of my production closed down in order to keep the workers safe, so I paused the production of my new collection and I am just getting started again with it now. All of my physical stockists closed, and my online sales also slowed down due to the level of financial stress and uncertainty that everyone is facing, it's been a tough few months for everyone but the most important thing is people's health and safety. So I am happy to put my business on pause until it is safe to resume.

With your musical background you clearly have a knack for absorbing different influences to express yourself creatively, does fashion work in the same way for you. Can you tell a story through your designs?

I definitely think that fashion is about storytelling and I aim to tell stories with my designs. I designed my latest collection while on a residency in Iceland, and the colours, textures and shapes were all informed by the landscape and my experience there. I illustrated Icelandic-wildflowers and grasses for the prints, and designed little details like fringed seams and hems on white garments inspired by the fragility of snow. My new collection is designed in hundred percent deadstock fabrics, which is other designers' end-of-roll fabrics rescued from landfill, I think these fabrics also tell a story, like the expression "one man's trash is another man's treasure".

Are you generally good with being in your own space or has this change of pace been a new for you?

I have always loved spending time alone. So I haven't really had an issue with the solitude of isolation. As someone who is usually touring every weekend, I have really enjoyed the downtime although I miss live music so much. I have been spending a lot of time drawing, playing guitar, reading and getting out into nature.

Have you been able to take time to dive into new ideas?

Yes, I've been working on a lot of new music, as well as starting to illustrate my next clothing print. Despite the stress and uncertainty of the time, it has actually been really nice to slow down and dedicate time to creative work and experimentation. And as my fashion production has been on hold over the last few months, I've been focusing on music! I released my debut EP in May, you can listen to it now. I have been writing and recording the EP sporadically over the last two years so it feels amazing to finally have it out in the world! I also designed a colouring booking as a free download to help bring some creativity to your isolation, you can download it on my website.

Is there a place you go to whenever you need inspiration?

I love to get out of the city into nature, the Australian bush has always inspired me, so if I am feeling really stuck or are in need of some energy I go for a long bushwalk, it just works every time.

For anyone who wants to wear your fashion. Or simply keep up with your work until better times. What is the best way for them to do so?

You can follow my fashion-Instagram, or my music-Instagram. You could also check out my website where I have all my latest music and fashion work all in one place.

Do you ship abroad?

Yes! I ship worldwide, with free shipping if you spend two hundred dollars or more.