EMMELI RYDEN TALKS MODELING

Interviewed by Culture Coast Talks editor Daniel John. Interview transcripts might have been edited for length and clarity.

How did modeling initially start for you?

Modeling started for me the way it does for “most people”, I was scouted at the local shopping mall in my home-town, Borlänge, when I was thirteen. I had received a request from Kupolen, Borlänge’s mall, asking if I wanted to walk in a fashion show for them, of course thirteen year old me said “Yes!” I thought it was super exciting, and right after the show I was scouted by an agency. But honestly I’ve never had a major interest in fashion. To tell the truth, I didn’t even understand what it was about me that was “pretty” or considered “model material.” I knew then, and I still feel now, that modeling is a fun experience, but it’s not like a passion of mine, either in terms of fashion or as a career path.

I should add that I did not end up signing with the agency that first scouted me, my parents didn’t want me to start that young, so I waited until I was fourteen and a half. Then we sent photos to several agencies in Sweden and incredibly every single one said yes. So I had a lot to choose from.

So your interest in modeling go beyond fashion, one could say?

I haven’t modeled that much for fashion brands, most of what I’ve done has been paid with pictures meaning I help photographers build their portfolios and in return I get the images for mine. But for the brands I have modeled for, I have come to appreciate the value of the clothes I'm wearing. I have a lot of respect for designers and labels that do not fall into the “fast fashion” category.

Were you inspired by other models?

Definitely. I’ve been inspired by a lot of models and even had idols. Most of them are from the ’90s, like Helena Christensen and Claudia Schiffer. Adriana Lima and Emily DiDonato are also big inspirations for me. What I admire about them is the way they pose, their confidence in their work, and things like that.

Did your idea of the modeling work match with the reality of it?

Not at all, when I was that young I only saw the glamorous side of modeling and the fashion industry. I didn’t see the downsides, at least I didn’t back then. Once I started modeling and signed with an agency I thought was good, I got a lot of praise. Things like, “Emmeli, you’re going to go so far” or “You have such a unique look, exactly what the modeling world needs”. But what no one told me was...

Not all what you expected?

Well, not entirely. The actual photoshoots were, pretty much, what I imagined. Spending a long time in hair and makeup, then several hours of shooting. That it can take almost a full day to get just four to twelve good images. But everything else about the fashion world was not.

What was your first work?

My first shoot was with a photographer from Falun, what you would call a print job.

Did it come naturally to you in the beginning. Are you a “camera lover”?

I was really nervous about starting modeling at fourteen. I had terrible self-confidence and almost no self esteem, standing in front of a camera when I could barely look at myself in a mirror was tough but the photographer I worked with on my first shoot was super kind and I’ve worked with her many times since. I’ve learned a lot, like how to move, which direction to look, and what kind of emotions to express. These days, it all comes more naturally since I’m used to it. I wouldn’t call myself a natural or a “camera lover,” but I’ve been told by photographers that I'm very "photogenic". (Laughs) So, I must be doing something right if they say that.

You were previously signed with MIKAS in Stockholm?

Yes, I was, but I decided to leave in July 2020.

Are you signed with a new agency now?

Not currently but I’m with a company called Ksting. They represent everything from models and photographers to makeup artists. It works a bit like an agency in practice, but it’s not officially a modeling agency. That said, new agency opportunities are in the works.

Are you what some on the casting side would call a "agency hopper"?

A lot of agencies wanted to sign me when I first sent out my photos and I met with most of them. But I haven’t “hopped” between agencies, like being with one for a year and then switching to another.

What do you expect from the agency you’re with?

I think it’s super important that an agency gives its models attention and actively promote them. That was a weak point with MIKAS. They have a lot of models, but they only feature seven to twenty of them on their Instagram or the website.

You mentioned to me earlier you have not worked internationally yet. Is that something you want?

Absolutely! I’d love to start working internationally. I’ve been in contact with a few overseas agencies so hopefully sometime in this year I’ll get the chance, if the pandemic moves in the right direction, of course.

So it's still something you wanna continue on with?

Definitely. Not because I see it as a glamorous career, but because I genuinely enjoy creating images with photographers. I try to view modeling more as an art form than as a job chasing a glamorous lifestyle.

The world’s biggest fashion scenes of course attract many more models. So the competition would be a lot, lot higher, even for art?

That’s true, internationally there’s a very strict mold for how models should look, especially when it comes to measurements. In Sweden things are more relaxed, and in my opinion, we’re ahead of the curve in terms of body acceptance. Modeling in Sweden doesn’t mean your career is over just because your hips are two centimeters too big. That said, you should not expect to become a big name in Sweden either. Like everywhere else you need an incredible amount of luck to make it.

A lot in this industry happens at the last minute. Do you like the spontaneity?

Oh well, I wish I were someone who loved spontaneity, but when it comes to work I prefer things to be planned. Sadly, that’s just a dream in the fashion world.

Do you prefer having clear instructions at a shoot, or more creative freedom?

I love having creative freedom, it’s so fun to bring your own ideas but it’s not always guaranteed. I also really like when there’s a clear concept or idea to follow. So I’m a big fan of both.

What has been your favorite day at work so far?

I don’t think I have a single favorite I have had fun with everything I have done, but about a year ago I modeled for the bridal brand Garamaj of Sweden, at the annual bridal fair at Grand Hotel in Stockholm. I felt like a princess in their dresses! That was such a fun experience. I would definitely do it again if I got the chance. Walking the catwalk for Garamaj of Sweden at Grand Hotel is probably the biggest thing I have done so far. It was at the Stockholm bridal fair, and even Lars Wallin was there! It was just such a cool vibe. The atmosphere was magical and the dress I wore was stunning, no doubt about it. It was a real princess dress that I think everyone secretly dreams of wearing.

Which designers and photographers would be the dream to work with next?

If I’m allowed to dream big, Steven Meisel and Mario Testino are iconic dream photographers, for any model. I also have to mention the legend Peter Lindbergh, who sadly is no longer with us. He was a dream photographer for me and a big inspiration. As for designers, Karl Lagerfeld, who passed away in 2019, was definitely at the top of my list, but his brand lives on and it would still be a dream to model for them. Lagerfeld and Coco Chanel are definitely my personal favorites.

Do you have a big wardrobe at home?

Not really. I try to clean it out regularly, getting rid of all the clothes that no longer fit or that I don’t wear often. My motto when it comes to shopping is if something new comes in, something old must go.

Do you often swap things you already have or hold on to things?

I’m definitely a mix of both. I love browsing for new clothes, but I am more of a saver than a spender when it comes to consumption. I rarely buy new clothes straight from stores. If I do need something, I always check second-hand shops first. And I always aim to consume quality pieces, clothes that will last, so I don’t have to replace them all the time.

What’s a set you always need to have available?

A pair of basic black jeans and a black or white t-shirt.

Is this, January, a fashion season you do enjoy?

I enjoy modeling in every season!