VALERIA ZHILYOVA TALKS ZHILYOVA LINGERIE

Interviewed by Culture Coast Talks editor Daniel John. Interview transcripts might have been edited for length and clarity.

Founded in 2014, and since having grown all around the world, what initially motivated you to found your own brand?

I have always wanted to start my own business, have my own company. I have also always been into technical science and the gaming industry. I tried fashion design while in university and really liked it, an ability to have this sort of architectural experience using fabric in just half a day was a big step towards creating my own project. At first, there were no big strategies and huge plans as it was the most important to master sewing and get to know every detail of this business. Which took a lot of time. Now, however, after learning and being in the business for a while, understanding the market really does help to create every collection.

Which was the first set you ever designed?

This was a set made out of see-through pink bandeau mesh and high waisted retro-style bottoms. When I was extremely exhausted after a long night of working I sent the picture to my mom. She double checked if the set was really an underwear set, because this set I had come up with looked nothing like you would see in Ukraine.

Inclusivity and individualism play a big role in your brand identity. From product sizing to campaign imagery, how do you ensure to cater to all women?

It’s the key reason why I do what I do, supporting women when creating something new, for example when starting their own businesses, is extremely important for me. When I was starting, there was barely any information, lectures, or courses to take. And the factories did not take me seriously when I was ordering large amounts and had big ideas. The idea that anything is possible without any dependency on your appearance is the message behind the Zhilyova brand, and what I translate through the company's values. It does not matter what you look like. It is important what and how you are feeling! And we know for sure that most of our clients have all the collections.

Even the lingerie-brands that promote themselves on female empowerment often have designs that are meant to manipulate your actual body. What are your thoughts on that and staying honest?

The industry is changing for the best for sure, and it is very important to note how incredible and needed that is! There is competition in the market, and you, based on your personal feelings, can choose the brand that suits you. And on social media you can track pretty much the whole company journey. Human relationships, honesty with self, and love for self are important and being emphasized right now. And I, personally, see those changes made in my environment and see how good of a change those are to today’s society. Advertisements don't look all the same anymore. And that is important. The more variety there is, the brighter the creativity and the stronger the mental health.

As a man, shopping for underwear is pretty much a no-brainer. But for women it can be pretty tricky. Especially online. How do you make sure it's easy to find the perfect fits and sizes?

We do it by paying more attention towards the content, shooting more different size-models, with absolutely various forms, showing that 90-60-90 is not the only beautiful size, and that the push ups don’t only look good on them. Our templates and clients are proof of that. During the quarantine, we integrated an Augmented Reality-system on our website to create a more interactive way for customers to communicate with the brand, and to see how the lingerie sits on our models. By the way, that is the best way of translating an image in the world, and we were the very first lingerie brand to do so! We are very proud of that!

Is lingerie still something men should give as a gift to women?

It’s the most amazing gift for every occasion.

Lingerie is often guided by sensuality and romanticism. While your work carries some of that as well, it also feels unique and artistic, with an artistic vision that's out of this world. What inspires the cutting-edge design?

I was never attracted to the whole boudoir theme in lingerie, it always reminded me of the outdated concept that lingerie is primarily a tool for seducing men. Now it's a compliment to myself, a way of self-expression and an element of community involvement and some bigger concept than just being able to visually enlarge breasts by two sizes. Three years ago, I decided to include sci-fi and retro futurism, my favorites since childhood, in campaigns and the brand styling, and then the puzzle came together completely. Now the brand is moving along this trajectory, weaving the elements of the gaming industry into itself as well. Our production has a complete freedom of action and I am happy to work with them.

What's the most time-consuming set you did?

'Unnamed 2.0' is our bestseller and at the same time the most complex set from a technical point of view. We have been refining the pattern and fabric for several years, collected feedback, changed the processing and internal stable material, everything so that it would fit perfectly. Now it comes out in eight shades, and in the next seasons it will be added in the form of additional drops.

Do you usually go through a lot of prototypes?

Yes, of course, it sometimes takes nine months to create a set, and this is not the limit. Our strong point is the design and construction team and we develop products for all types of figures. Sometimes, we do ten samples, see that something doesn't work anyway, and come back next season. Thus, our development process does not stop, and our production allows us to make regular new drops.

Any fabrics that you prefer to be working with?

We work with see-through elastic mesh, lace, which are being produced specifically for our brand. One of the fabrics is in Barcelona and it’s history starts from the nineteenth century. Using the best Italian silk and cotton and the most intricate mesh embroidery, are what we are known for.

Is there a set that you are especially excited for?

The 'Kasumi' set is named after the female hero of the first anime I watched as a child. A detachable cotton cord adds a shibari element and accentuates the unusual shape of the décolleté. Strong women have always inspired me to move forward and not fear the unknown.