ZHILING CHEN TALKS FENCING101

Interviewed by Culture Coast Talks editor Daniel John. Interview transcripts might have been edited for length and clarity.

When did you realise you wanted to be in fashion?

My grandmother taught me how to knit, patiently explaining each step and seeking my input on colors and styles. Unlike other mothers who dictated their children's wardrobe, mine allowed me to choose my own clothes and even mix and match pieces. Shopping for clothes with her was more like a fun activity than a chore, and as a child, I excelled at the fashion game. Participating in the creative process of fashion fueled my interest from a young age. Making personal style choices and expressing my preferences empowered me, and as I grew older, this interest developed into a passion for the fashion industry as a whole. Both the creative and business aspects of fashion captivated me, and I was determined to pursue my goals in an industry that had captured my heart early on.

Would you say that a career in fashion is encouraged in China?

In my opinion, China's fashion industry has immense potential, but it faces several obstacles that must be overcome, the most significant challenge is the absence of a distinctive Chinese design style that can be easily recognized. Moreover, the industry is grappling with plagiarism and intellectual property infringement due to inadequate laws and regulation, the lack of comprehensive fashion education for the public further exacerbates these issues. Despite these hurdles, I remain optimistic about the future of China's fashion industry. With an increasing number of Chinese fashion designers gaining international recognition, there is a great opportunity to establish a unique and recognizable Chinese design style. I believe that with dedication and innovation, China's fashion industry has the potential to thrive, and on the global stage.

As you moved to study fashion over in New York, was there any cultural-clashes between what you knew of fashion from back home in China and what you encountered there?

The beauty of culture lies in its ability to blend seemingly disparate elements into unexpected and harmonious combinations. Chinese culture, like American culture, is a rich tapestry woven from many different smaller cultural threads. As a designer of lingerie, I have come to appreciate how these cultural differences can manifest themselves in the way people perceive and use underwear. In China, underwear is primarily seen as comfortable indoor attire, while in the US, it is viewed as a versatile item of casual clothing that can be worn outside. Drawing inspiration from these cultural perspectives, I aim to design pieces that seamlessly fuse comfort and sensuality. My designs celebrate the diversity and the inclusivity of our global society, reflecting a fusion of cultures that is both beautiful and functional.

Fencing101 is an activewear collection that is visually inspired by the distinguished sport of fencing. Did you ever do any fencing yourself?

Yes, during high school, I was the sole female member of the fencing team. I was drawn to the design and material of the fencing uniform which made me feel empowered every time I put it on. However, it wasn't just the uniform that captivated me. I was also enamored with the fluid motion of the sword as it traced its path, and the freedom I experienced as my body moved in sync with the sport. As a designer, I am thrilled to create a collection that integrates these elements. I aim to incorporate the unique design and materials of the fencing uniform while incorporating the fluidity of movement that comes with fencing. My goal is to create pieces that evoke a sense of feminine strength and grace. With this collection, I hope to inspire others to embrace their power and express themselves with confidence and style.

How do you strike the balance between ensuring comfort and achieving such a stylish design?

Activewear is all about achieving that perfect balance between comfort and functionality. That's why, in designing my collection, I made sure to incorporate a range of high-stretch-fabrics, such as synthetic blends and mesh materials. These fabrics are ideal for activewear, providing the necessary support and breathability for high-intensity workouts. But I also wanted to infuse my collection with a sense of comfort and familiarity. That's why I integrated natural fibers like stretch cotton, which not only offer excellent support and breathability but also have a soft and cozy feel against the skin. By using a combination of both synthetic and natural fabrics, I aimed to create activewear that is both functional and comfortable, to help athletes of all levels to perform at their best without sacrificing style or comfort.

Having once designed a collection inspired by taking a break, how important is it for you to create space for rest and reflection in your creative process, especially within the fast-paced world of fashion?

In my view, society has imposed numerous unspoken deadlines upon us, dictating what we should accomplish at specific ages. The fashion industry is no exception, with its seasonal markets and ever-changing trends that require rapid turnarounds. Despite this pressure it's crucial to disconnect from these external deadlines and listen to our inner voice. Understanding our personal deadlines is key. For me design is a journey of self-discovery, a way to express my understanding of myself to the world. With each design-breakthrough, I experience a personal growth milestone. I believe that the creative process should not be rushed, as it requires time, patience, and self-reflection. By ignoring external deadlines and allowing my inner voice to guide me, I can create designs that truly represent my authentic-self.

While most creatives may prefer not to share a vision before it’s fully realized, is there anything you can reveal about what’s inspiring you most right now, at this moment?

I derive inspiration from a myriad of sources, often in the most unexpected of places. It could be while watching a movie, taking a leisurely stroll around the city or even just observing intriguing signs on the street. I relish exploring new experiences and experimenting with different approaches, as this allows me to gather a diverse range of materials to draw inspiration from. Currently, I am engrossed in a project that draws inspiration from my childhood memories and experiences growing up in my hometown. I find it immensely rewarding to tap into these personal experiences, as they provide a rich tapestry of emotions and ideas to draw upon. By infusing my designs with these deeply personal elements, I strive to create pieces that not only look stunning but that also resonate with a sense of authenticity and meaning.